Jean’s Recipe File
Chrystal’s Chocolate Torte BurgundyThis is rich!! The easiest way to grate the nuts is in a blender.
Mother's Baking Powder Coffee CakeNote: This also makes good cupcakes. See separate recipe for Crumb Streusel Topping. Photo of Zelma Levin, age 14.
Crumb Streusel Topping for CakeThis is good with Mother’s Baking Powder Coffee Cake Note: May be kept in glass jar in fridge for weeks. Photo of Zelma Levin, age 14.
Grandma Yetta's Crumb CakePicture is of Yetta Chemnick Levin (1862–1941), referred to as "Grandma" throughout this cookbook. Yetta was Zelma Levin Goldstein's (1905–1978) mother. Zelma is referred to as "mother" or "Grandma G." throughout this cookbook. Zelma was Jean Goldstein Malamud's mother. Jean is the cookbook author and recipe collector.
Ellen's Poppy Seed Cake9" pans can be used, just lower the baking temperature. This is Yvette's favorite birthday cake, and Jean made it for her for many years. The trick to an excellent cake is to soak the poppy seeds in milk overnight.
Mother's Jello CakeConcocted by Grandma G. on Feb. 15, 1951, for Syd's birthday. Good combinations: *Banana flavor and red coloring. *Raspberry flavor and red coloring. Photo of Zelma Levin, age 14.
Chocolate Ithaca-Italian Fruit Cake (Pan Papato)Mrs. Alexander was Jean & Ernie's first Ithaca landlady, and what-a-cook! Notes: Orange requires advance preparation (the night before). Make at least 2 weeks before use. A photo and some interesting history about panpepato (or pampepato) from Italian Food, Wine, & Travel by Kathy Bechtel: http://www.chefbikeski.com/?p=2675 “Pan pepato, or ‘peppered’ bread, is a fruit cake which hails from either Siena or Ferrara, depending upon the source, and you will probably find others that claim to have first produced this spicy cake … depending upon the ‘legend’, panpepato is either the predecessor or antecedent of pan forte, ‘strong’ bread. Both are fruit cakes, pan pepato (or panpepato) is flavored with black pepper and chocolate, while pan forte (or panforte) is milder, with the chocolate and pepper omitted.” “Documentation of these fruitcakes dates back to the 1200s, and shows that this type of bread was paid to Siena monasteries as a tithe. About this time, there are references to the Crusaders carrying this long-lasting sweet on their quests, to sustain them during sieges.” “In Ferrara, panpepato is served from Christmas day to Epiphany, but is traditionally offered on New Year’s Eve. In 1465, the Duke of Ferrara, Borso d’Este celebrated the feast of St. Martin with an elaborate banquet that included pan pepato with gold pieces inserted in each cake. The bakers of Ferrara then became famous for this dish, and the Ferrarese would present a panpepato to nobility and to the Pope to gain favor. As recently as World War II, the Ferrarese sent an 11 pound panpepato to General Eisenhower.”
Mother's Seven-Day Prune CakePhoto of Zelma Levin, age 14. This cake needs no frosting; a dusting of powdered sugar is sufficient. When dissolving baking soda in coffee: use larger than 1-cup measure to dissolve it in, because the baking soda foams up. It's called a 7-day cake because it will keep for 7 days.
Mother’s Strawberry ShortcakeMany thanks to Paulette Kaleikau, who baked and photographed on the 4th of July weekend. Paulette’s comments: “Your mother’s shortbread with a little 4th of July zing. Reminded me of Chinese sponge cake. Thumbs up from both Craig & I.” Kosher (dairy)
Grandma Yetta’s Biscuits for Old Fashioned ShortcakePhoto of Yetta Chemnick Levin (1862–1941), Zelma’s mother.
Aunt Fanny's Jam Cake (Mother’s Method)This is Zelma's adaptation of Aunt Fanny's recipe. Photograph of Zelma Levin, age 14.
Aunt Fanny's Jam CakePhotograph of Fanny Goldstein Chemnick (1886–1955), Syd Goldstein’s sister & Grandma Goldstein’s aunt. If second batch of dough is divided into 4 parts after rolling, and then each fourth patted to meet the others, the handling is easier.
Aunt Lilly’s Jam CakePhotograph of Lillian Minsky Goldstein (1903–1993), Syd Goldstein’s sister-in-law.
Grandma Yetta's Honey CakeHoney cake is traditional for Rosh Hoshana (Jewish New Year). Photo of Yetta Chemnick Levin (1862–1941).
Sally Jackson's Gourmet Banana Tea BreadSally Jackson was a friend From Cornell and Argonne. Photo by Elise Bauer from Simply Recipes: http://www.simplyrecipes.com/recipes/banana_bread/
Yvette’s Whole Wheat Pie CrustMakes One 8” to 10” single crust OR a double crust. For white flour crust, use 1 cup white flour instead of white and wheat mixture.
Mother’s Apple PieUse the quantities of apples for size pie as indicated in any of your cookbooks. For the pie crust, I have always used the standard 1 part shortening to 3 parts flour and a speck of salt, but never worried about handling the dough or cutting in shortening, just use my fingers and don’t get the shortening too well blended with flour. Understand the new method of oil is very good and very easy. You might try it. I like to put some canned milk on the top crust, just spread a little with your fingers, it gives the pie a nice, brown look.
“Aunt Mandy’s” Rhubarb PiePhoto from Taste of Home: http://www.tasteofhome.com/recipes/strawberry-rhubarb-meringue-pie/ May be kosher and/or ovo-lacto vegetarian, depending on type of shortening used.
Yvette’s Walnut PieMore nutty and less sweet than typical pecan pie. Makes One 9” pie. An 8” or 10” pie can be made by changing the amount of nuts. Works well with Yvette's whole wheat pie crust [see separate recipe].
Aunt Feige’s StrudelRecipe from Aunt Feige, Rita’s older sister. Dough must be drier for strudel than for bagellach (bagellach is a potato or meat filling with this leaf). Advance preparation: Jam must be prepared the night before. Allow adequate time to prepare the strudel dough. Strudel, a type of layered pastry (usually with a sweet filling), became popular in the 18th century through the Habsburg Empire. Strudel is a traditional pastry in the whole area of the former Austro-Hungarian Empire. The oldest Strudel recipes (a Millirahmstrudel and a turnip strudel) are from 1696, in a handwritten cookbook at the Vienna City Library. The pastry descends from similar Near Eastern pastries such as baklava and Turkish pastries. Photograph of sour cherry strudel from The Taste Space: https://tastespace.wordpress.com/2010/12/
Pirog or Piroghi (Apple, Jam, Cabbage)From Valia Nikitina & Irina Zolina, as argued out in our big, old-fashioned Warrenville kitchen. Our Russian visitors were all good cooks, and each had her own correct recipe. For main course, dessert, or snack. The Pirogi are eaten out of hand. The Pirog is richer and eaten with a plate and fork. Jean’s notes: Grease hands before handling dough. Use butter, not oil, to grease pan. Photo from Food Network.com: http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/food-network-kitchens/mushroom-apple-pierogies-recipe.html
Aunt Feige’s BagelRecipe from Aunt Feige, Rita’s older sister. If egg white is beaten and added last, it will be fluffier. Aunt Feige’s recipe calls for poppy seeds, but you can also sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds or other topping.
Cheesecake à la Sally JacksonThe cake is very good even without the toppings. The Zwieback crust was Jean’s adaptation since there were no graham crackers in Lausanne. Yvette's Note: To make kosher and/or ovo-lacto vegetarian, omit the gelatin in the recipe.
Aunt Fanny’s Plain CookiesPhotograph of Fanny Goldstein Chemnick (1886–1955), Syd Goldstein’s sister & Grandma Goldstein’s aunt.
Aunt Fanny’s Rolled Cookies (Rugelach)Photograph and comments courtesy of Laurel Wickberg Bailey: "A half recipe made 30 cookies. They don't look the way Grandma's used to, her's seemed to have more dough, less filling but I followed the recipe to a T (other than halving it) and they're delicious!" Rolled cookies are also called Rugelach (רוגעלך). Rugelach is a traditional Jewish food eaten any time of the year (including Shabbat and Hannuakah). This version is kosher as it does not use milk or butter.
Cottage Cheese Cooky SticksJean’s Note: Use nuts as a base to roll on, to avoid sticking. See diagram for cutting and rolling. Kosher (dairy)
Mrs. Sumter’s Ice Box CookiesKosher: Pareve if you use vegetable shortening, dairy if you use butter.
Aunt Lilly’s Ice Box CookiesPhotograph of Lillian Minsky Goldstein (1903–1993), Syd Goldstein’s sister-in-law. Kosher: Pareve if you use vegetable shortening, dairy if you use butter.
Ellen’s Nutritionally Sound Peanut Butter FudgeStart with 1/4 cup yeast to 2 cups peanut butter and work up. Kosher (dairy).
Lee Pinnell’s Divinity FudgeYvette's notes: Better to make on a dry day. If you're not familiar with candy stages, use a candy thermometer. Photo from What’s Cooking America: http://whatscookingamerica.net/Candy/Divinity.htm
Mother’s Candied Orange or Grapefruit StripsPhoto of Zelma Levin, age 14. You can either peel the fruit, keeping peel in quarters, or cut them in half to eat as usual, then remove whatever may remain in the skins, and cut the peel into strips. If the white pulp seems heavy, some of it can be removed, but not too much, as it is what absorbs the sugar. I prepare the peels as I get them and keep them in the freezer until I have enough for a batch. Draining the peels: I find putting them on paper towels helps to get rid of some of the excess moisture. Plain: Kosher (pareve) and vegan; chocolate-dipped: Kosher (dairy) and lacto-vegetarian.
Eli Läuchli’s Elderberry SiropEli Läuchli is a Swiss Artist-Humanist we met in Tucson. She is currently a watercolor artist living in Winterthur, Switzerland (http://www.eli-lauchli.ch/). Zitronensäure is citric acid, also known as lemon salt or sour salt. It may be found in the baking or spice aisle at the grocery store.
Ron’s GlompRon worked with Jean at Amoco Chemicals near Warrenville, Illinois; they shared plants & recipes before they were the ‘in’ thing. Can serve glomp over ice cream or cake. Photo from South your Mouth: http://www.southyourmouth.com/2014/01/friendship-fruit-cake-plus-starter.html
Garlic VinegarFrom Jean Lesem’s The Pleasures of Preserving and Pickling (Alfred A. Knopf). Yield: About one quart.
Raspberry VinegarYield: About 1-1/2 quarts. Use 2 to 3 tablespoons in large glass of iced water for a cooling beverage. For flavor variation, try half-and-half mixture of raspberries and strawberries. Recipe from Jean Lesem’s The Pleasures of Preserving and Pickling (Alfred A. Knopf). Photo of Sweet Raspberry Vinegar by Taste of Home: http://www.tasteofhome.com/recipes/sweet-raspberry-vinegar
Spiced Wine VinegarYield: About one quart. Recipe from Jean Lesem’s The Pleasures of Preserving and Pickling (Alfred A. Knopf).
Ellen’s Yoghourt Ice CreamGood made with canned applesauce (if really goopy, let drain), with apricot, banana, strawberries.
Chrystal’s SabayonRecipe from Chrystal Schivell, a friend from Early Warrenville days. Chrystal’s Sabayon is a lighter version than Jean’s (see separate recipe). Fold the stiffly beaten egg whites into the custard when cooked.
Ernie’s Baked AlaskaCointreau and peach ice cream are good combinations. 6 egg whites give enough meringue for one large Alaska.
Mother’s Noodle PuddingPhotograph of Zelma Levin around age 14 (the year she quit high school to work during the day). Photograph courtesy of Ellen Wickberg. Kosher (dairy).
Vegetable PâtéRecipe from Barb Perrington of Fermilab. Yield: Serves 8 to 10. If using a blender, cook vegetables a little longer. Puree in small batches, transferring each batch to a bowl. Then mix with cheese, crumbs and seasonings. Kosher (dairy).
Saganaki (Flaming Cheese)Recipe from Petros: A Chicago Greek restaurant where there is good food, good wine and fun. Photo from Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Saganaki.jpg Saganaki (σαγανάκι) refers to various Greek dishes prepared in a small frying pan, itself called a saganaki, the best-known being an appetizer of fried cheese. Cheese saganaki can be made with graviera, kefalograviera, halloumi, kasseri, kefalotyri, or sheep's milk feta cheese. Flaming saganaki apparently originated in 1968 at The Parthenon restaurant in Chicago’s Greektown (according to this Dining Chicago article: http://www.diningchicago.com/blog/2009/08/27/chicago-taste-of-greece-flies-this-weekend/ ).
Cheese Ribbons (Jenny Wren)According to the Food Company Cookbooks blog, “Jenny Wren Recipes (1926, 16 pages) is a cute little pamphlet with recipes for biscuits, shortcake, dumplings, pancakes and waffles, quick breads, doughnuts, pies and cakes, cookies and other desserts.” Jenny Wren ready-made (self-rising) flour originated in Lawrence Kansas since the 1920s. The flour mill operated on the riverfront of the Kaw River in conjunction with the Bowersock Mill. Photo from: http://foodcompanycookbooks.blogspot.com/2008/02/jenny-wren-flour.html
Judy’s Cheese RoundsJudy Segol was a friend from San Diego High School days. Note: Can freeze dough-covered olives to bake later. Yield: 50 hors d’oeuvres. Kosher (dairy).
Tranches au Fromage (Swiss grilled cheese sandwich)Recipe from Thérèse Chevalley, an indigène of the Haute Vallais. The number of slices of bread and cheese to use depends on people’s appetites! Best combination is glutinous French bread and Gruyere cheese. You can add an egg on top, and still better a slice of ham between the bread and cheese plus the egg (poached or fried) on top of everything.
Stuffed MushroomsMrs. Ma's Chinese Cookbook is available on Kindle through Amazon: Available on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Mrs-Chinese-Cookbook-Nancy-Chih-ebook/dp/B00B77AJ2O/ref=sr_1_1?s=digital-text&ie=UTF8&qid=1403680423&sr=1-1
Ellen’s Version of New Joe’s SpecialThe name “Joe’s” was a generic name that dates back to the Barbary Coast in San Francisco. During the 1920’s, a group of entrepreneurs decided to open a new restaurant on Broadway Street in San Francisco. The name “Joe’s” had gone dormant for a while and they determined that “New Joe’s” would be a good name. “New Joe’s” became the first restaurant in San Francisco to do exhibition cooking where food was prepared in full view of the customers. It was also the restaurant where the “Joe’s Special” was created. Folklore has it that a customer ordered a spinach omelet very late one night. The customer asked the chef if he had anything else available to cook. The chef replied he had some hamburger left. The customer asked him to throw some of the hamburger into his omelet. The dish became so popular that they eventually put it on the menu. History from the Original Joe’s website: http://www.originaljoes.com/history.htm Photo from Saveur: http://www.saveur.com/article/Recipes/Classic-Joes-Special
Stuffed MiltzPhoto of Zelma Levin, age 14. A miltz is the cow’s spleen. The cooked texture is like a very tender liver. You can get an old, ethnic butcher to make the pocket. Miltz is not for calorie or cholesterol watchers. Kosher (meat).
Zel’s BrisketPhoto courtesy of Laurel Wickberg Bailey. Jean’s Notes: Cover tightly with aluminum foil for entire cooking. Start preparing the night before.
PilimieniRecipe from Valia Nikitina and Irina Zolina, Dubna wives dropped in the middle of the Illinois Prairie for a year. Russian ravioli as prepared by two very good Russian cooks. Photograh from http://ua-travelling.com/en/information/pelmeni-recipe. Could also use finely-cut cabbage for filling.
PiroshkiRecipe from Tamara Pilipienko & Elena Morosova, more Russian wives who came to our very foreign country. Our Russian visitors made a seemingly endless number of these “Little Pies”—actually rolls with a sweet or savory filling. Jean’s Note: Grease hands before handling dough. Use butter, not oil, to grease pan. Tamara does not let rise again after filling. She brushes with butter when done, and puts a towel over the piroshki. Photograph from http://tanjaskitchen.wordpress.com/tag/piroshki-recipe/
MeatballsThanks so much to Yvette’s sister-in-law Lisa Herrinton for cooking and photographing the meatballs! Lisa suggests browning the meatballs before adding them to the tomato sauce.
Baked Fish à la Aunt SarahRecipe from Sarah Rapkine, Ernie’s Parisienne aunt. Photograph of Sarah in 1990.
Mother’s Gefilte FishPhotograph of Zelma at age 14. To allow thickening, can also cook longer after the fish is out, or add a little plain gelatin. Kosher (pareve), unless you use gelatin. Kosher for Passover if you use matzo crumbs instead of bread.
Grandma’s Marinated HerringYvette's Note: Herring milt or miltz (מילטז) is the soft roe of the herring. Kosher (pareve).
Boeuf Fondue BourguignonneJean’s Notes: Remind guests that cooking forks are not for eating. They get hot. I use peanut oil. Heat oil on the stove before bringing to table. Round steak (one-inch cubes) is a good meat to use.
Fondue à la Raymond WeillRaymond Weill: The Lausanne Physicist who started our world travels by inviting Ernie to work at the École Polytechnique. Don’t lose the bread in the pot or you owe a bottle of wine! Preferred cheese is genuine Swiss gruyere; you can mix with a certain amount of Emmenthal (genuine Swiss if possible). Dry white wine: use Villette or Feudaul. In USA Almaden, pinot blanc, or chablis will be okay.
Eggplant “Pizzas”Photograph from Kalyn's Kitchen: http://www.kalynskitchen.com/2012/08/recipe-for-julia-childs-eggplant-pizzas.html Yvette's Notes: A long, thin eggplant (female) is preferable to a short, rounder eggplant (male). The female eggplant has more, smaller seeds; the male eggplant bas larger, fewer seeds, and a more bitter taste. Male eggplants tend to have less of an indentation on the vine stem end than the females. Kosher (dairy).
Linda’s Broccoli and Stuffing CasseroleRecipe from Linda Pearson: A fellow Amoco Chemicals technician
Falafel in PitaSuggestion: Serve with pickle strips. See separate recipes for Tahini Sauce and Hummus.
HummusGood as a dip with pita chips or fresh veggies, or as a spread on sandwiches. Adapted from recipes learned from Israeli visitors to Illinois in the 1970s. See separate recipes for Falafel and Tahini.
Sizzling Rice for SoupWhen the liquid is poured onto the rice, the absorption makes an interesting sound. Combine the two at the table, right before serving, to amuse your guests.
Mother’s KashePhotograph of Zelma Levin, age 14. Some people like to serve it in place of rice or noodles in soup. May be kosher and/or vegetarian, depending on what type of fat you use.
Mother’s Matzo Balls for Soup (Knedlach)Photograph of Zelma Levin, age 14. Good for Passover. Kosher (meat).
Aunt Feige’s BagellachAunt Feige was Rita’s older sister Dough is not quite as dry as for Strudel. Kosher (dairy).
Mother’s Potato KugelAs potatoes are shredded, add to egg mixture so they won’t turn green. Can bake in well-greased muffin tins—takes a little less time. May be vegetarian and/or kosher, depending what type of fat you use.
Potato Hats (“Cowboy Things for Boys”)Eli Läuchli is a Swiss Artist-Humanist we met in Tucson. She is currently a watercolor artist living in Winterthur, Switzerland (http://www.eli-lauchli.ch/).
Gratin Dauphinois à L’Hôtel DemornexPotatoes should come only to 3/4” from top of dish, or milk will boil over. Keep it shallow so it bakes fast. Kosher (dairy).
Yvette’s Gratin Dauphinois au FromagePhoto courtesy of Janet Ashford, who used home-grown garlic and potatoes! Best if two or more types of cheese are used in combination. Can try other combinations of cheeses. Potatoes should come only to ¾” from top of dish, or milk will boil over. Keep it shallow so it bakes fast.
Linda’s Asparagus SoupRecipe from Linda Pearson: A fellow Amoco Chemicals technician. If using fresh asparagus, use 3/4 C water to each pound of asparagus to cook. Kosher (dairy)
Yvette’s Yogurt Cucumber SaladFinely mince the cucumbers to serve as a dip, like raita, or as a cooling topping. Use thicker slices or cubes of cucumber for salad. Kosher (dairy).
Yvette’s Flower SaladDressing: I prefer a vinaigrette or a garlic mayonnaise. To keep the flowers and lettuce from wilting, don’t toss the salad with the dressing beforehand: allow people to add their own dressing. The flowers are edible. Kosher (pareve or dairy) and vegetarian (ovo-lacto or vegan), depending on dressing and optional ingredients.
Rita’s EggplantYvette's Notes: Using the "barbeque" (stove-top) cooking method imparts a slightly charred, smoky flavor to the eggplant. Keeps in refrigerator for 3 to 5 days. Kosher (pareve)
JoJo’s RatatouilleRecipe from JoJo Joseph: From Lausanne, Switzerland, cooks like her Southern French upbringing. Good warm or cold. Kosher (pareve).
Grandma Fanny’s Apple CakeA 2014 addition to the cookbook. Recipe from Adryenn Cantor (Fanny’s granddaughter). “When it was cut it was a slice of apple cake, which has a lot of apples as the filling. Delicious!” Photograph of Fanny Goldstein Chemnick (1886–1955), Syd Goldstein’s sister & Grandma Goldstein’s aunt. May be kosher and ovo-lacto vegetarian, depending on what type of shortening is used.
Recipes come from family, friends, co-workers, neighbors, and other sources (e.g., restaurants, magazines, and cookbooks). Many thanks to Eric Wickberg (one of Ellen’s sons) for helping provide photographs and accurate information about various Goldstein family members.
• Jean Goldstein Malamud: The collector
• Mother (Grandma G.): Zelma Levin Goldstein (1905–1978), Jean’s mother, married to Syd C. Goldstein
• Grandma (Yetta): Yetta Chemnick Levin (1862–1941), Zelma’s mother
• Ellen Goldstein Wickberg: Jean’s sister
• Aunt Fanny: Fanny Goldstein Chemnick (1886–1955), Syd Goldstein’s sister & Grandma G’s aunt
• Aunt Lilly: Lillian Minsky Goldstein (1903–1993), Syd Goldstein’s sister-in-law
• Ernie Malamud, Jean’s ex-husband
• Rita: Rita Kayser Malamud, Ernie’s mother
• Aunt Sarah: Sarah Rapkine, Ernie’s Parisienne aunt
• Aunt Feige: Rita’s older sister
• Carl Malamud: Jean and Ernie’s first son
• Yvette Malamud Ozer: Jean and Ernie’s daughter (the compiler)
• Mrs. Alexander: Our first Ithaca landlady, and what-a-cook!
• Thérèse Chevalley: Indigène of the Haute Vallais
• Sally Jackson: From Cornell and Argonne
• JoJo Joseph: From Lausanne, Switzerland, cooks like her Southern French upbringing
• Eli Läuchli: A Swiss Artist-Humanist met in Tucson
• Valia Nikitina & Irina Zolina: Dubna wives dropped in the middle of the Illinois Prairie for a year
• Tamara Pilipienko & Elena Morosova: More Russian wives who came to our very foreign country
• Linda Pearson: A fellow Amoco Chemicals technician
• Barb Perrington: Of Fermilab
• Petros: A Chicago Greek restaurant where there is good food, good wine and fun.
• Lee Pinnell
• Ron: Of Amoco Chemicals, who shared plants & recipes before they were the ‘in’ thing
• Chrystal Schivell: Early Warrenville days
• Judy Segol: From San Diego High School days
• Raymond Weill: The Lausanne Physicist who started our world travels by inviting Ernie to work at the École Polytechnique
• Julia Child
• Hôtel Demornex: Province of AIN, France—A one-star restaurant in a one-half horse town near Geneva
• From Jean Lesem’s The Pleasures of Preserving and Pickling (Alfred A. Knopf)
• Connie Lynch
• Mrs. Ma’s Cookbook
• Parade Magazine
• Sunset Magazine
Cover photograph (left to right): Zelma Levin Goldstein, Jean Goldstein Malamud, Uncle Hyman Chemnick (?), Aunt Goldie Goldstein, Aunt Lilly Goldstein and Aunt Fannie Chemnick. Probably sometime in the early 1950s.