The first step is to read the package carefully, since it will note if the seeds are best for direct sowing or starting indoors.

A lot of seeds are just fine to direct sow into the ground — these include radishes, carrots, beets, poppies and morning glories (to name just a few). You can also start seeds indoors, but it’s only advised for plants that don’t mind having their roots disturbed during transplanting.

A basic rule of thumb is to avoid direct sowing until all threat of frost has past. Weather information provided by organizations like the National Gardening Association can give you the expected date for the end of frost season in your area. I usually wait an additional week past that date just to be sure. You should definitely start seeds indoors 4-8 weeks before the last predicted frost date. If you’re confused, you can always ask  me or Douglas another BakeSpace gardening expert for help.

Next, I use Peat moss, which is different from potting soil. This technique has led to a heated debate among gardeners over the past few years because harvesting Peat moss contributes to depletion of natural wetlands and is an unsustainable resource. Keep in mind that there are alternatives to Peat moss like composted leaves from the previous fall (ideal) or even commercial products with clever little names like RePeet.

Some folks prefer working with Peat moss because it helps retain moisture and aids seedlings as they grow. Seeds are very sensitive and don’t need all the extras ingredients and nutrients you find in potting soil. In fact, a seedling that sprouts in potting soil can quickly die from the overload on its delicate system. I find that Peat Moss works for my garden, but again there are alternatives.

You can buy a plain bag of moss with nothing added at any garden store, hardware store or discount center. You will also find Peat pots, which are a good option because they break down naturally in soil. If you start your seedlings in these pots, you can put them directly into the ground without disturbing the roots. This means there’s less chance of causing your plants shock when transplanting.

Using Peat moss: Try The Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss Association’s Peatmoss.com – useful tips on working with Peat Moss -

Alternatives to Peat moss:

• RePeet
• Coconut Coir -a product that most resembles Peat moss comes from the fibrous husk of the coconut
• Grass Clippings – grass clippings are high in nitrogen and can be mixed into garden beds to prepare for planting. The University of Missouri has a fun article on grass clippings and mulch
• Compost – compost adds valuable nutrients and organic matter to your garden beds.
• Mulch – straw, newspaper, and sawdust can help to keep your garden beds from losing water through evaporation. Tip: Mulch plants after they are established in your garden beds.

What are your thoughts on sowing your seeds? We’d love to hear from you!

What is Square-Foot Gardening?

Square-Foot Gardening is a unique approach to gardening that allows you to produce the largest possible harvest in the least amount of space and with the least amount of work.

The underlying idea is to divide your garden (whether it’s a backyard, patio… wherever) into beds that are 4 feet by 4 feet. The beds are then subdivided into 1-foot squares where plants are grown very close together.

Benefits of Square-Foot Gardening:

• Much less work, water and space
• Very little weeding
• Pesticide and herbicide free.
• Accessibility – a plywood bottom can be attached to each box so it can be raised higher or moved to another location.

Location. Location. Location.

Gardens need sun to grow, so make sure your Square-Foot Garden gets a good amount of sunlight throughout the day (6-8 hours depending on time of year is ideal). One of the great things about Square-Foot Gardens is that they can have raised beds, so they can be built on a patio if you don’t have to have yard space.

The 10 Basic Steps

LAYOUT. While most Square-Foot Gardens are arranged in 4′x4′ beds,  I also have a few 2′x2s and even a 6′x6′.  Keep in mind that if you can’t walk all the way around your bed, smaller is always better. What’s nice about going smaller is that you can reach around the entire box, making less impact on the soil by not having to step around.

BOXES.  This is probably the only time in gardening where it’s actually advisable to cheat. There are pre-built raised beds available at most local gardening centers and online.

AISLES. If you are growing more than one Square-Foot Garden, space your boxes about 3 feet apart to form walking aisles. You’ll need this space to walk, work and weed.

SOIL. Mel believes in a special soil mix consisting of 1/3 blended compost, 1/3 peat moss and 1/3 coarse vermiculite (organic worm poo). I, however, have used premixed organic potting soils, which seem to work just fine.

GRID. Make a permanent square foot grid for the top of each box. This can be done with wood trim, metal posts or simple string.

CARE. Try to not walk on your garden. Compacting the soil is damaging to roots and cuts off essential oxygen your plants need to grow.

SELECT. Plant a different flower, vegetable or herb crop in each square foot, using 1, 4, 9, or 16 plants per square foot. A mong the most efficient crops are carrots, which need just 3 inches between each plant. This means that you can easily fit 12-16 carrots in 1 square foot. However, tomatoes need much more space to thrive and room for their roots to go deep, so don’t plant more then one per square foot.

PLANT. Add only 1-2 seeds per hole. Try to not over-plant your squares because it may cause the plants to choke one another, leaving you with stringy tasteless vegetables.

WATER. Raised beds demand more water than conventional gardens, so water regularly.

HARVEST. After you harvest your finished plants, you will notice that the soil ‘shrank’ in the given space. This is because the plants removed a large amount of nutrients. So before you plant the next round, you’ll need to turn in some fresh compost or soil.

While there is much more to cover on the subject, the above info should be more then enough to get you started. So if you’ve been putting off creating a garden, you can no longer say that it’s because you just don’t have enough space. .

Inspired? Why not give Square-Foot Gardening a try?

PHOTO CREDIT: C. Wood of Minnesota http://dustbathladies.blogspot.com

Order by Catalog

By now, many garden supply companies have released their spring seed catalogs. There are lots of companies to chose from, with most carrying the same varieties.  If you’re on a budget, many catalogs offer discount coupon codes which can save you money on your final order. Also try a quick Web search for the catalog’s name plus the term “coupon code” to see if anyone has posted discount offers.

Start Today

Winter is the perfect time to start ordering your copies of seed catalogs. Most allow you to sign up online to receive a free catalogs, and some even have their entire catalog available on their website. Sites like Seed Savers Exchange have a large free catalog and enable you to order online to receive additional choices and discounts.

Various Seed Types

When you order seeds, they will arrive labeled “organic,” “heirloom” and “hybrid.” It’s important to understand what you’re getting, so here’s a quick overview of each type:

Heirloom seeds will always grow true to the mother plant, so you can harvest them to replant next year. Such varieties have been around a long time, and were not engineered or altered in any way.

Organic means the mother plant that produced the seeds was grown using organic methods and was not chemically treated, or mutated. These usually breed true as well, so you can collect the seeds to plant again next year.

Hybrid seeds are from plants created using genetics and cross pollination, which produces a plant that is superior in terms of production and taste. These seeds are meant for single season use. Collecting them for use the next year is not suggested, as they will not produce true to the parent plant.

Spring Seed for Free or Trade

Like many people, you may not have the budget right now to invest in multiple kinds of seed. So why not collect seeds from your previous year’s garden to replant this Spring? Odds are you’ll get much more than you can use, and have plenty left over to trade. You can find seed traders on craigslist this time of year, as well as on some online gardening communities such as TheEasyGarden.com, where there’s a seed trade forum.

If you don’t have seeds to trade, there are other options to get you going. A wonderful organization that collects free seeds to give away is called WinterSown.org. They get free seeds from all sorts of gardeners, and will send you several packets if you simply provide a self addressed stamped envelope. You will get a small amount of seed – perhaps one or two dozen seeds for six to eight types of plants. You can request vegetables, flowers or both!

Gathering and planting seed is a inexpensive way to start your garden. Chances are you won’t use an entire packet of each seed type you order, so store them in a dry, cool spot so you can use them again next year. But keep in mind that the longer you store seed, the less likely it will germinate. That said, seeds should be very viable for years to come!

Join the conversation… let us know where you’ll be getting your seeds from or ask Shannon a gardening question below in our comments section.

Nonetheless, winter is one of the best times to think about gardening!  The cold winter months when many plants lie dormant are the perfect time to plan your garden layout and decide on your vegetable, fruit and flower choices.

Selecting The Location

Some of you may already know from experience where to locate your garden plots so as to get the most from your land. But if you are starting fresh, now is the best time to chose your location. Find a place with the most sun throughout the day. There are very few fruits or vegetables that do well in shade. Most fruiting plants need at least six hours of sun daily to create their bounty, but more is even better.

Choosing a Bed

A traditional bed is plowed directly into the ground. While it’s easy to turn the soil in a small plot with a hand hoe, the larger the plot, the more work! If you’re an urban gardener working in a tiny space… no sweat, but if you have a large backyard you may want to start saving now to invest in a tiller (you can also rent one).

If you live near a university with an agricultural extension office, why not bring them a sample of your soil so they can test it to see if you should plan on adding any additional nutrients. It’s best to know now rather then lose your first crop in the spring due to poor soil conditions. (learn more about Agricultural Extension Offices).

If you would like to cut back on weeding and have more control over soil quality, consider raised beds, which have become very popular. Any garden raised above the ground is a raised bed, so there is no specific height requirement you need to follow. I have a few only 4” above the ground, and some as high as 18”. I’ve seen raised beds as tall as 4′ in gardens as well. They are great for when you don’t want to bend over to work in your garden. They can be made out of concrete, rock, wood or whatever you have laying around. You do have to move your dirt into these beds of course, but this allows you to purchase high quality soil up front or add your own compost mix. If you go this route, keep in mind that raised beds require more watering than traditional beds.

A Journal

Writing a journal is a great way to save your ideas throughout the winter. You can note measurements and keep track of important phone numbers for resources such as your local extension office or agricultural college. You can also track the sun’s location in your yard, and jot down all the plants you’ve seen in magazines or online that have caught your eye. The info you keep in your journal will definitely come in handy.

Remember, it’s time to start planning now, before you start planting and become too busy weeding and working in the garden.