Some time ago I started adding a pinch of sugar to my vinaigrette dressing, realizing that is what adds some of the brightness to the dressings in Italian-American restaurants. To make the sugar dissolve, I found I had to mix it in vinegar with the other dry ingredients and shake before adding oil. After that I would carefully pour in some good oil to my ratio of 3:1. Then one day it occurred to me: who needs the oil? Just mix up the vinegar in quantity and add oil as needed to your salad. This allows me to vary my oils: a really nice oil for a simple salad on fresh greens, something middle of the road in quality and price for an everyday salad, and maybe even use corn or peanut oil for a busy salad where you can’t really taste the oil. And if I am in a penitent mood, I may drizzle it onto greens without any oil at all. As a bonus, this preparation doesn’t leave oily rings on my counter or shelves.